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Saltscapes Blog

  1. Saltscapes Road Trip Day 24

    Today dawned a beautiful sunny morning after a rainy and windy evening and overnight at the Stonehame Chalets in Pictou County NS. From a vantage point of 800 feet, the view from this location, especially on such a morning, is simply outstanding. A great swath of Pictou County, including Pictou Island, is visible with PEI off in the distance.

    We left the main highway at Masstown for a Fundy Shore visit to Parrsboro and environs. It has been a while. We had, perhaps, forgotten just how pretty this area is - with stunning views out across the bay in front and a backdrop of tree covered hills.
    There's a great deal of local anticipation about the upcoming Bay of Fundy positioning in the new seven wonders of the world vote.

  2. Saltscapes Road Trip Day 22

    This was to be a long day.

    We left Margaree Harbour on a gorgeous morning (Lord knows we deserved it) for a scenic drive across western Cape Breton Island, up along Lake Ainslie and down to the western end of Bras d'Or through the Isle Madame area where French replaces gaelic on bilingual road signs. This was a new experience for us both: very pleasant communities.

    We had the usual wait at the causeway (where 100 vehicles line up to allow two boats to pass) and turned left near Monastery for the pretty little drive down to Guysborough - just a charming town.

  3. Saltscapes Road Trip Day 21

    Still in sunny Cape Breton thus morning: fingers crossed.

    Departed Ben Eoin Campground after a great breakfast on the deck overlooking the mirror flat Bras d'Or Lakes; pretty magical.

  4. Saltscapes Road Trip Day 20

    The MV Atlantic Vision docked in North Sydney right on time on a beautiful morning with an encouraging weather forecast (that we surely deserved after four and a half days of sunshine in 19 on the road).

    Moving dogs and kennels and personal on-board items down seven decks was a bit if a chore, but the crew were very helpful - and the dogs noticeably thankful after 15 hours penned up.

  5. Road Trip Day 19

    What an amazing and spectacular drive we had today. The day dawned clear, but a fairly hefty wind came up early and strengthened during the day. That meant as we toured the absolutely rugged coastline of the Bonavista Peninsula that some major surf was pounding rocks everywhere with spray flying into the air. It was quite something.

    We had to slow for our second moose of the trip - a young bull who didn't seem in any particular hurry to get across the highway. It was a long, straight stretch, so there was never any danger to him or us.

  6. Road Trip Day 18

    Departed Gander Bay for the short drive to Gander this morning (watching for moose and taking our time). Enjoyed a hearty brunch at the good old Albatross Hotel where unique menu offerings include toutons and molasses, poached kippers and real salt codcakes.

  7. Road Trip Day 15 & 16

    A bit of a lay-up is planned for the next day and a half.

    We hit Gander Bay in late morning and Jim was assembling fly fishing gear as soon as his feet hit terra firma. As regular fishing visitors to the Gander, we have friends in the community who are employed by the lodge we usually visit, so it was a bit of old home week camped there overlooking the river estuary.

  8. Road Trip Day 14

    Back on the trans-Canada early this morning heading east, then a secondary road northeast through Lewisporte and Baytona (that's right, no typo) toward the Fogo Island ferry. We found more super-fresh local seafood - another huge feed of crab from Treats from the Sea for dinner later, and some crab and lobster sandwiches from Chelsea's takeout - a simple little place by the side of the highway featuring sit down tables with umbrellas - and a million dollar view.

  9. Saltscapes Road Trip Day 13

    Steady Brook, just north of Corner Brook, is only 30 scenic minutes or so from Deer Lake, which is really the gateway to Gros Morne National Park and the Great Northern Peninsula. This is unquestionably Newfoundland's most popular and best-known tourism attribute, and we can never resist, but our focus on this trip is on the less iconic places off the beaten track.

    So by afternoon we were heading across the island for the north coast.

  10. Saltscapes Road Trip Day 12

    Ah, the Rock! We were up at dawn (what's new?) but Bob Shortt beat us to it and was outside the RV catering to his two newly-arrived Lab puppies and grinning like a new father.
    The Margaree Valley is a spectacular place to wake up, and a tough place to leave - but we had a ferry to catch.