When I begin the process of writing a story, I sometimes put out a call to friends and family for recipes that have pertinence to the topic-recipes that have been around for a long time, and have a flavour and comfort value all their own.
This time I was intrigued by my friend Ronald Vanderweegan's recipe for his Omma's Dutch Apple Cake, and decided to make it for dessert one snowy Sunday. Johanne and I headed out to our local grocer where we found row upon row of shiny apples, but not many local ones. This started a dialogue on the way home: just how big is our apple footprint?
In 2008, Atlantic Canada produced 47,400 tons of apples-that works out to roughly 45 pounds per person-at a value of $14,620,000. Ninety per cent are grown in Nova Scotia; the remaining 10 percent come from New Brunswick and PEI.
Of course, Nova Scotia has a long history of growing apples-going back to the Acadians, in the 1600s. In 1912 commercial apple growers in the Annapolis Valley formed The United Fruit Companies of Nova Scotia; today, Scotian Gold Cooperative-owned by Valley producers-handles the business of storing, processing, packing and marketing roughly 50 per cent of the province's crop.
Apples are typically thought of as fall fruit, given that's when they ripen, but with controlled-atmosphere storage we can enjoy fresh, local apples year round.
It's key that apples are harvested at a specific maturity level, which varies by variety. Once harvested, the fruit is placed in bins and moved to either cold storage or airtight, refrigerated warehouses. The oxygen level is reduced to one to three per cent, from the normal 22 per cent; carbon dioxide levels are increased to two to five per cent from .25 per cent, and the temperature is kept at 32°F to 37.5°F. The rooms have computerized monitors to ensure the temperature and gases are at optimum levels-ultimately slowing down the ripening process.
Varieties such as Gala, Honeycrisp and Jonagold are good choices for eating fresh; Northern Spy and Idared are good for use in pies and other baking-these apples will not break down as much when baked, retaining their texture and shape.
Jonagold and Ambrosia are relatively new varieties grown in the region; SweeTango and Sonya apples should be available for the first time next fall. Granny Smith apples typically need a longer growing season than we have in Atlantic Canada, but a few local growers are experimenting with them.
Of course, the benefits of apples go far beyond good taste. Apples contain lots of fibre and antioxidants, and essential trace elements that harden bones, helping to offset osteoporosis. If an apple doesn't appeal on its own, cut it up in slices or wedges and sprinkle a little cinnamon sugar on them-the benefits outweigh the sugar.