Downtown Dartmouth and the nearby Eastern Shore of Nova Scotia pair ideally for an urban-rural escape
Halifax Regional Municipality is a massive, sprawling beast that encompasses many communities. It also offers plenty of fun destinations for day trips or weekend adventures. Dartmouth, the City of Lakes, boasts a vibrant downtown core on the harbourfront, while the Eastern Shore gives visitors a taste of rural life. Come for the weekend any time of the year, including in that odd season that’s not really winter and not quite spring.
Friday
Evening
Artful dining and axe hucking
Perched high on a bluff overlooking the upper reaches of Porter’s Lake, the view from the deck of the Nalu Retreat glamping dome is of sparkling water and dense forest. Inside, the ambiance says boutique hotel. Bird song warbles from a monitor beside a mini humidifier and leather sofa. I’m 30 kilometres from Dartmouth, beyond the sights and sounds of the city, but within reach of urban distractions when the mood strikes. If you’re exploring in winter or early spring, remember that weather can change at the drop of a hat (or a snowflake) so bring warm clothes and dress in layers for outdoor activities.
A half-hour drive gets me to downtown Dartmouth’s Oxalis restaurant, where food presentation is raised to an art form. A top East Coast restaurant, courses arrive like mini masterpieces. The grilled octopus dish is like a Tim Burton set, against a velvety, electric yellow sauce. Dessert is a trompe l’oeil, a forest floor scene of chocolate acorns, bark, twigs, leaves, and berries.
Downtown Dartmouth feels like a distinct neighbourhood because of the variety of small businesses, pubs, restaurants, and residences in a compact, 20-block area. Oxalis sits quietly among vintage vinyl shops, a creperie, craft beer taprooms, cafes, and several lounges, including the Timber Lounge, founded by lumberjack and seven-time world log-rolling champion, Darren Hudson of Barrington, N.S.. Evenings get competitive when teams go head-to-head, hucking axes at bullseye targets for highest score. Craft beer is on tap but expert coaches keep things safe.
Back at Nalu, it’s time to wind down, don a plush robe, shuffle out to the deck, and ease into the hot tub. Once accustomed to the bubbling water, succumb to its soporific effects. Overhead, the stars drift in and out of view through billowing steam.
Saturday
Morning
Where the buffalo roam
The morning dawns bright through the triangular dome windows. Brew a tea and watch the mist lift over the lake. With an hour drive ahead to Lindsay Lake Farms, grab a coffee and pastry for the road. Pure Café at the foot of Porters Lake is just the ticket. The paninis and wraps are tempting, but for a treat, zero in on Lunenburg cranberry bundt cake to complement your cappuccino.
Heading inland from Musquodoboit Harbour on Route 357, make your way down the pretty Musquodoboit Valley to Elmsvale, then take Mooseland Road for nine kilometres to Lindsay Lake Farms. It’s 800 hectares of gently rolling countryside, a mix of forest and field, dotted with small lakes.
Jan and Christiane (Kitty) Teerling farm wild blueberries and rent Airbnb units to supplement their income as they build a business from their 50 head of bison. Back in Germany, before they moved to Nova Scotia in 2020, they raised red deer for market. The bison roam with a large, fenced area of pasture and forest.
“We feel we’re stewards for the land,” says Kitty, watching the linebacker bulls rolling around, raising clouds of dust, while the young ones stick close to their moms. “We bought bison because we feel these animals belong to this land. We give people the opportunity to reconnect with these ancient animals, with their spirit, with their raw energy.”
Back at the barn and shop where chickens and cats wander freely, Jan shows off links of fresh pork Oktoberfest sausage, still warm from the steamer. “The pork is from a Nova Scotia farm,” says Jan. “In the future, we’ll have some pigs of our own, but for now, we have to buy it.” Kitty builds a charcuterie board that includes bison. One bite reveals that the East Coast will be tasting a lot more from Lindsay Lake Farms.
Saturday
Afternoon
Kayaking and hiking
On the return drive, rendezvous with Musquodoboit Valley Outfitters. Stephanie and Nolan Hartlin outfit me and a few others with lifejackets and single kayaks. The upper Musquodoboit River is mostly gentle: 73 kilometres of slow-moving waters, perfect for novice kayakers. Their kayaking season begins in mid-spring, once weather improves.
“We love to take people out, paddle around, and let them play in the boats,” says Stephanie. “We just want people to come out and see how accessible it is for so many. You can tailor the experience.
If you want to have a Zen time and just be by yourself, you can do that. Or hang out with friends and talk and swim or use it for exercise. It allows you to pick the adventure you want.”
Our group is mostly novices, so our journey is more drift than paddle. A couple of pleasant hours pass before reaching the end point across the road from the head of the Gibraltar Rock Hiking Trail. After securing the kayaks, head up the steep trailhead littered with car-sized boulders to the top of the rockface. From there, you can see the river stretching into the wilderness upstream and down.
Downtown Dartmouth and the nearby Eastern Shore of Nova Scotia pair ideally for an urban-rural escape
Saturday
Evening
Lupin’s tasting menu
After a rest at the Nalu dome, it’s off to another special dinner. Be sure to arrive on time for the seven-course tasting menu at Lupin Dining and Pantry in West Petpeswick, seven kilometres south of Musquodoboit Harbour, because every customer is served each dish simultaneously. From the outside, Lupin looks like any other private house along the road. Inside, the setting is intimate and casual. The star of the show is swordfish with chorizo and spiced tomato sauce, but my favourite dish is “Carrot,” a beautifully presented and delicious arrangement of carrot chips, pickled carrots, and sumac-glazed carrots, with carrot-top pesto and tahini cream. The dish celebrates the humble vegetable.
Sunday
Morning
Uprooted to the market
It’s tempting to linger at the dome, but checkout is approaching, and breakfast is calling. Head to Uprooted Market and Café in Musquodoboit Harbour and sip a cappuccino while browsing the market shop, waiting for the breakfast classic: ham from the local Snowy River Farm, a fried egg, aged cheddar, and mayo on a grilled soft bun. Around the shop, find local vegetables and fruits, dried foraged and farmed Mushaboom Mushrooms, kombucha on tap by local brewers Goodmore, and whimsically painted wooden carvings.
Uprooted is hopping on market day. Every Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., the vendors’ tents spring up at the Musquodoboit Harbour Railway Museum, transforming the space into the Musquodoboit Harbour Farmers Market. Around a restored caboose, snowplow, boxcar, and station house, local vendors sell produce, beverages, fresh bread, and even clothing. Try a variety pack of Still Fired spirits, select a bunch of carrots from the Vegetorium, and check out the watercolours at Dee’s Art. Suddenly, it’s time to head home with an armload of gifts and, inspired by Lupin, fresh produce to create your own carrot celebration.
Ideas for the Next Trip
Lodging
- Salmon River Country Inn.
- Ocean Bay View Luxury Guesthouse.
- 3 Moonlight Beach Suites.
Dining
- Battery Park Beer Bar & Eatery.
- The Canteen on Portland.
- Salmon River Country Inn.
- Noor’s Mediterranean Kitchen.
Activities
- Walk the Salt Marsh Trail.
- Swim or take a surfing lesson at Lawrencetown Beach.
- Walk Martinique Beach.
- Visit Fisherman’s Life Museum.
- Harbour Breezes Daylilies display gardens and shop.
Shopping
- Kept.
- Audrey’s Little Shop of Plants.
- Renegade Records.
- Soap in Your Mouth.
- Atlantic Dutch Shop.