This was to be a long day.

We left Margaree Harbour on a gorgeous morning (Lord knows we deserved it) for a scenic drive across western Cape Breton Island, up along Lake Ainslie and down to the western end of Bras d'Or through the Isle Madame area where French replaces gaelic on bilingual road signs. This was a new experience for us both: very pleasant communities.

We had the usual wait at the causeway (where 100 vehicles line up to allow two boats to pass) and turned left near Monastery for the pretty little drive down to Guysborough - just a charming town.

We lunched at the Rare Bird Pub, which has what must be one of the most appealing views from the rear deck of a pub anywhere. Linda engaged in (even more) shopping at the nearby, and packed, Days Gone By bakery, cafe and gift shop.

Then we made a mistake.

Readers had suggested we take a turn down the East River Valley through communities around Stellarton, like Sunnybrae. That part was, indeed, worthwhile. Neat little places with well-appointed homes, many on huge lots, set far back from the highway.

But we chose to get there from the Eastern Shore on a secondary highway that is a disgrace. The sign said "rough section for 31 kilometres". It was more like 80. We lurched and rattled and banged for more than 90 minutes, much of the time on the wrong side of the road to avoid potholes and broken pavement where grass is actually growing. Not exactly RV friendly. By far the worst drive of the trip to date.

From Stellarton, we hurried cross country on familiar back roads to our home near Middle Stewiacke for one night to relaunder, repack, reclean and recharge before setting out again the next day.

Our big black Lab, Angus (who had been becoming increasingly depressed with the confinement of RV life) literally jumped in the air with joy at being home before rushing off to reunite with his dog buddies among our immediate neighbours. Guilt filled the air. The puppy looked around in wonderment at the space as she entered the unfamiliar house - then peed on the hardwood floor.