A small, eye-pleasing city packed full of opportunities
By Darcy Rhyno
Don’t misunderstand. Fredericton’s five (count ’em) farmers markets are absolutely having a moment these days, but they are more an indication of just how vibrant the city is rather than any suggestion of limited opportunities. For a small city, Fredericton has a lot going on, much of it—including many of the best festivals—concentrated in the two-block Historic Garrison District beside the Saint John River.
At the heart of this district is Officer’s Square, where military ceremonies still take place daily in summer at 11am and 4pm: it’s worth catching. The heritage stone buildings, green spaces, wrought iron fences and quiet lanes harken back to Fredericton’s early days as a garrison town.
Depending on the weather—and your preferences— there are plenty of activities to choose from. At the 700-seat Fredericton Playhouse, see everything from ballet to blues. Across the street, the Beaverbrook Art Gallery surprises many visitors with the number and quality of the works. The star of the show is an enormous and dramatic painting by Salvador Dali called Santiago El Grande, featuring a white stallion rearing up on its hind legs.
On the other end of the activity spectrum, the Saint John River is perfect for paddling. Several rental and guide companies in town make it easy to get out on the water. Second Nature Outdoors offers courses and rents kayaks, canoes and stand up paddleboards for fun on the river, as well as bikes for touring the city’s streets. Their “Paddle and a Pint” and “Gears and Beers” are popular tours that combine getting out on the river or riding the streets on two wheels with stops at some of Fredericton’s great craft breweries and taprooms including Graystone, Picaroons and the James Joyce Pub in the Crowne Plaza Hotel.
Here’s what else is having a moment in Fredericton—beer and spirits. The breweries in town brew in signature styles, each at the top of their class. My personal favourite is Trailway for their unfiltered, citrus-hopped beers that are so juicy, you’d swear they’re made from real grapefruits, lemons and limes.
But it could be Fredericton’s whisky bar, the Lunar Rogue Pub, that can claim the most astonishing variety and quality of drink in the city. Named by Whiskey Magazine as a “great whiskey bar of the world,” owner Frank Scott has built his inventory to a dizzying selection of some 700 single malts and premium blends.
When it comes to dining, the choices seem almost as overwhelming as the whisky and whiskey menu at Lunar Rogue. Whether it’s an El Diablo burger with guacamole and zesty salsa at STUFT Burger Bar and Poutinerie, something tropically warm like Blackened Cajun Ribeye Steak at Caribbean Flavas Restaurant, a hearty Maritimes bowl of seafood chowder at Wolastoq Wharf or creative smoked fishcakes with dill pickle mayo at 540 Kitchen and Bar, it’s all delicious and satisfying.
Luxurious Slumber
When it’s finally time to lay head to pillow, there’s no shortage of places to stay, but for total pampering of you and yours, it’s a toss-up between a couple of world class B&Bs that bookend the downtown area. The five-star Quartermain House is an award winner, once named number one B&B in North America. The Gothic Revival heritage property sits across the street from the river within walking distance of the Fredericton Playhouse and the Beaverbrook Art Gallery. Debra Quartermain’s breakfasts are legendary, and no wonder. For starters, it comes in courses. Mine began with braised pears and maple syrup with cinnamon dusted strawberries and moved on to blueberry cake topped with stewed berries and a dollop of whipped cream.
On the other side of town, By the River is a new B&B in a lovingly updated 1903 home that should win its own awards soon enough. Like Quartermain House, it sits next to the Saint John River and boasts generous breakfasts of dishes like smoked salmon eggs benny, Chinese dumplings and fiddlehead frittata.
Which classy B&B to select? What to have for breakfast? Which festivals, which markets to attend? Beer or whisky? Paddle boarding or kayaking? Art gallery or live performance? They’re all tough choices, but they’re also all win-wins because Fredericton just never fails to please the weekend explorer.
Fredericton’s top festivals
St. Mary’s Pow-Wow, June 19-21
Bard in the Barracks, June 25-July 5
FeelsGood FollyFest, June 26-28
Cultural Expressions, June 27-28
River Jam, July 3
Fredericton Pride Week and Festival, July 6-12
NB Highland Games, July 24-26
Down East Brew Fest, August 1
Acadian Days Celebrations, August 15
Summer Soulsa, September 4-5
Harvest Jazz and Blues Festival, September 15-20
Word Feast: Fredericton’s Literary Festival, September 22-27
Fredericton Fall Craft Show, October 2-4
Silver Wave Film Festival, November 5-8
New Brunswick Spirits Festival, November 17-21
Intro Credit: Tourism New Brunswick
Intro caption: Paddleboarding on the Saint John River.
Header caption: Fredericton shines at night through the summer months with outdoor decks, festivals, markets and more.
