Atlantic Canada is blessed with a multitude of locales that stir the soul, spark the imagination and keep drawing you back. Saint Andrews, AKA St. Andrews-by-the-Sea, is one of those places. The charming town on New Brunswick’s Passamaquoddy Bay has a magic that lingers long after you’ve left.

Friday
Evening
Sunset stroll and pub fun

Arriving in the coastal community, husband Keith and I head straight to the Algonquin Resort, an iconic Tudor-style hotel that’s welcomed visitors since 1889. Now part of Marriott’s luxury Autograph Collection, the property is a gem, with grand architecture, sweeping views of the bay, and the cozy elegance of a bygone era. Even if you stay at another property, it’s worth visiting for a drink on the veranda or to golf its renowned course.

After stashing our bags, we walk downtown to a favourite landmark, St. Andrews Market Wharf off King Street. We arrive as the sky explodes into brilliant hues of orange and pink. Gulls cry as we saunter and eventually descend a steep ramp to another landing. Here, we glance back at the wharf and a dark line marking the high tide level. Passamaquoddy Bay, part of the Bay of Fundy, experiences some of the world’s highest tides, rising and falling as much as 8.5 metres, a dramatic shift that never fails to impress.

Next stop: Saint Andrews Brewing Company for live music and excellent craft beer, followed by another round at the Red Herring Pub. We cap the evening with superb fish and chips at the Gables on Water Street, then wander back to the Algonquin, scanning for deer that frequent neighbourhood lawns. They’re hiding tonight but we spot a bunch the next day.

Saturday
Morning
Downtown walk and retail therapy

Saint Andrews is a town made for wandering, so after a hearty breakfast at the Algonquin, we trek back to Water Street, where historic clapboard buildings house independent boutiques, art galleries, and cafés. While I browse handcrafted pottery and jewelry at shops like the Serendipin’ Fine Art and Craft Gallery, Keith makes a beeline for Honeybeans Coffee, Tea & Treats and a caffeine fix. He picks up some fresh scones, too, which we devour later while admiring creative murals splashed across area buildings.

We pause on Water Street to view a commemorative plaque detailing how the town, a National Historic District, was founded by Loyalists in 1783. The Historic Sites and Monuments Board of Canada plaque describes it as a “fine and rare surviving example of a Canadian town whose plan and character clearly reflect its 18th-century origins.” The board highlights the town’s grid plan, public spaces, defensive sites and commons area, along with its “fine collection of commercial and residential buildings… the majority of which feature design motifs inspired by British classicism.”

Reenergized by the hot drinks, colourful artwork, and history lesson, we visit a few more merchants. At the Whale Store, I peruse puzzles, books and colourful home goods. At Warm and Coasty, there’s no shortage of funky nautical-themed décor. Keith ponders a buttery leather wallet at LH Boutique (the Leather House) while I swoon over its women’s fashions. We both leave with treasures in hand.

Saturday
Afternoon
Garden delights and a tasty treat

With hats and sunglasses toted, we head a kilometre down the road to Kingsbrae Garden, an 11-hectare oasis filled with more than 50,000 perennials, an old-growth Acadian forest, ponds, and a whimsical sculpture garden. Since opening in 1998, Kingsbrae has won numerous awards and remains one of the region’s top attractions.

After a light lunch at Sage, Kingsbrae’s garden café, we ramble through the magnificent, themed gardens, noting plants like rhododendron and hydrangea that might look nice outside our home. We pause to take in the view at benches and lookout points. We’re in no rush. This is the kind of place meant to slow you down, to let your senses absorb the colours, textures, and fragrances as you meander from one magical corner to the next.

Still buzzing from the floral overload, we return downtown for a little indulgence at McGuire Chocolate Company on Water Street. Beautifully wrapped bars and confections, made from single-origin cocoa beans, line the shelves. We sample yummy squares of dark and milk chocolate, buying a sweet stash for later.

Saturday
Evening
Decadent dining and firepit relaxation

When it’s time for dinner, I’m happy we’d made a reservation well in advance at the Rossmount Inn, a culinary landmark set in a stately 19th-century manor house a short drive from town. We’ve been here before and are keen for another opportunity to sample Chef Chris Aerni’s seasonal menu, highlighting fresh seafood, foraged ingredients, and local produce. Our meals,  featuring velvety, butter-poached lobster paired with a crisp, aromatic white wine served in an elegant setting don’t disappoint — the perfect end to a lovely day.

Well, almost the end.

Back at the Algonquin, we grab cocktails and join other guests under the stars at one of the firepits. Flames crackle as laughter floats through the warm night air. We chat with travellers from Ontario and Nova Scotia, swapping stories of hidden gems along the East Coast. In moments like these, one feels extra lucky to call Atlantic Canada home.

Sunday
Morning
Aquarium tour and history lesson

We wake early, eager to spend the morning by the water. Saint Andrews is one of the best places in Canada for whale watching. Depending on the season, you might see humpback, minke, finback, or even the endangered North Atlantic right whale. Book ahead for your whale-watching tour with operators such as Quoddy Link Marine, Jolly Breeze, Fundy Tide Runners, Cruisin’ with the Whales, and Island Quest Marine.

Conditions aren’t right for whale watching today, so we skip the boat and look for something more grounded.

We head to the Huntsman Marine Science Centre instead. We explore touch tanks filled with starfish and sea urchins, watch harbour seals frolic, and learn about the research and education programs. One day, I’d love to join the “citizen scientist” excursion, a 3.5-hour research voyage where participants help collect live samples and oceanographic data.

We stop next at St. Andrews Blockhouse National Historic District. Built during the War of 1812 to defend against American attack, it’s one of the few remaining wooden blockhouses in Canada. We study interpretive signs then step inside, imagining what it was like to be a soldier here. Before leaving, I stand near the cannons still on guard as I photograph the calm bay, grateful our history turned out the way it did.

Sunday
Afternoon
Chowder slurping and low tide journey

For lunch, hubby wants to check out Seasons by the Sea Bistro, known for its creative twist on Maritime fare. Seated in a sunny corner with a water view at Seasons, we dig into Brandon’s Chowder, a soul-warming seafood medley brimming with P.E.I. mussels, salt cod, bay scallops, Atlantic salmon, and roasted vegetables. No apologies for slurping.

Tide times aligned, we then drive across an exposed sandbar to Ministers Island, a national historic site only accessible at low tide. Once parked, we make our way to Covenhoven, the 50-room summer estate of the late Sir William Van Horne, former president of the Canadian Pacific Railway. With its original art, furnishings and stunning location, the home offers a fascinating window into Canada’s past. Afterwards, we walk to Van Horne’s bathhouse at the water’s edge, where I raise a few eyebrows lying flat on the floor to photograph its intricate ceiling. Before long, my phone alarm reminds me the tide is on its way back in. Time to go!

As we leave the island and depart Saint Andrews, I’m already planning our return. Maybe it’s the historic streets, the ocean air that clears the mind, or the warmth of the people — this seaside town sure has a way of capturing your heart and drawing you back.