Touring towns along the mighty Saint John River
Mexican Fiesta, Dark Chocolate Explosion, Hot Apple Pie, Lobster—these are just a few of more than 30 choices, not for dishes at some eclectic buffet, but as flavourings for my two bags of potato chips fresh from the fryer. I just watched them come off the assembly line at the Albright family-owned Covered Bridge Potato Chips near Hartland, New Brunswick. One bag is filled with sweet potato chips. For them, I go all out with a few shakes of “Too Hot for You.” For the bag of regular chips, I have to try the lobster seasoning.
Many of these flavours aren’t available in stores. They’re just for visitors who want to customize a bag or two of fresh chips. Some of the flavours sold in stores are distinctly East Coast—The Weekender, Atlantic Lobster, Donair and perhaps their most popular, Storm Chips, named for the common practice around here of stocking up on chips before a major winter storm.
While flavouring my own chips is great fun, so is watching the assembly line process. The Russet potatoes used in this small factory are grown on the Albright family farm not far from here. A mere 55 pounds of washed, sliced potatoes are cooked at one time. It takes just 35 seconds for a mechanical slicer to do its work and five minutes for the chips to deep fry to perfection. The oil gets spun from the chips before final inspection and flavouring.
Covered Bridge in Hartland is my first stop on what I’ve come to think of as Potato Road, the 100-kilometre stretch of Route 105 along the scenic Saint John River in western New Brunswick. The Albrights’ potato chip company is named for the town’s historic landmark, the wooden covered bridge, by far the longest in the world at nearly 400 metres, and a national historic site. It recently turned 100 years old. Vehicles cross the Saint John River beneath its gabled roof, pedestrians beneath the covered walkway attached to one side.
Route 105 meanders further north along the river. Following it, I arrive at another covered bridge in Florenceville-Bristol. This is truly the epicentre of New Brunswick’s potato country.
Hartland’s Covered Bridge is the longest in the world and a national historic site—as well as the namesake for the locally made potato chips.
Across the Saint John River is a museum called Potato World. Interactive displays, short films and antique farm machinery such as the International kerosene tractor—its thick metal wheels painted fire engine red—make for a terrific museum experience. A Potato Hall of Fame documents the history of this area as the French fry capital of the world. Florenceville is the hometown of the McCain family, which built a worldwide frozen food empire from humble beginnings. The surname features prominently among the inductees.
At the on-site Harvest Café, I order—what else—a plate of the world’s finest fries. There’s lots more on the menu such as burgers, sandwiches and soups, but the “Gourmet French Fry” section is long and tempting. I can order regular or curly cut, sprinkled with maple bacon bits or roasted garlic, smothered in bacon and cheese or as the foundation for a Philly steak or donair poutine, all made with local potatoes. I go for the fat, homemade wedges with bacon and melted cheese accompanied by sides of salsa and sour cream.
Back across the river on Route 105, the Andrew and Laura McCain Art Gallery on McCain Street is another family legacy. As philanthropists, the McCains helped create and support this important regional exhibition space for New Brunswick artists. The gallery also serves as a sales outlet for local arts and crafts, and as an activity centre where visitors can dabble in the arts during workshops in techniques such as potato printing.
The scenic drive continues riverside through pastoral countryside to Grand Falls where Route 105 ends. It’s easy to see where this town of more than 5,000 got its name. Impressive waterfalls roar past the centre of town and tumble down through a narrow gorge. The best views are from the round Malobiannah Tourist Information Centre perched at the edge of the gorge.
The humble potato competes with the great falls as the pride of the town. The logo for the busy Saturday farmers market near the falls depicts a family holding up a potato basket filled with produce. The building once housed a potato starch factory. Farmers face off at the annual truck and tractor pull in June. During Canada Day weekend, the Regional Potato Festival animates the town all along eastern Canada’s widest main street.
There’s no better place in town than Jack Fries to sample the local spuds that are celebrated here in so many ways. Known for friendly staff, a fun atmosphere, generous portions and tons of ways to enjoy perfectly prepared fries, I check out the menu to satisfy my craving one final time. I’m tempted by the decadent poutine varieties, but I go for the classic burger and fries.
In short order, a basket with a fat burger and a stack of piping hot, fresh cut fries is served up, just as I’d expect at the end of Potato Road.
