Three days well spent around Ingonish 

Lulled by roaring sea waves and the whistling of seabirds nesting in the rocks below, I lean back in the Parks Canada iconic red chair, lingering for a blissful moment high above the Atlantic Ocean at the tip of Middle Head Peninsula in northern Cape Breton. 

“Go,” I tell my family, as I breathe in the salty air, savouring the scenery at the halfway point viewing stop along the 3.8 km meander through the Middle Head Trail in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. “I’ll catch up with you.”

I need more time—another moment for this moody, broody interface of mountain and ocean, looking out over Cape Smokey and Ingonish Island.

We’re here in the highlands for three days camping in the park’s Broad Cove Campground, just past Ingonish. And it couldn’t be better.

One night, as darkness creeps in, we uncover the ghosts of Ingonish past by stepping into the night air with the dandy, thrilling Parks Canada “Lantern Walk Through Time”, a guided, after-dark offering winding its way along the Freshwater Lake Trail, providing dramatic natural theatre at its best.

By day, we devour key lime pie and good coffee at the nearby Bean Barn Café, hike endless trails, all nearly at our doorstep, and drive the striking Neils Harbour coastal route, where diners can stop to order fare from the Chowder House and eat at the breezy, cliffside picnic, or enjoy an ice cream cone sold from the next door lighthouse.

We hike down to see Mary Ann Falls, splash around in the park’s freshwater lakes and ocean waves, visit the Salty Rose and Periwinkle Café in Ingonish, and take in the expansive beauty of Ingonish beach at twilight, where, staring into seemingly never-ending sea and sky, one feels all could be possible.

Destination Cape Breton / Dale wilson

“Canada’s national parks are gateways to discovering and connecting with nature, and Cape Breton Highlands National Park is no exception,” says Bonnie MacLeod, Parks Canada Promotions Officer, Cape Breton Field Unit.

“Cape Breton Highlands National Park offers spectacular coastal scenery, an incredible launch pad for an array of activities and adventures, and a diverse ecological environment that many wildlife species call home. We believe that everyone will find something special to connect with at Cape Breton Highlands National Park.”

MacLeod says when you enter the park on the eastern side, near the community of Ingonish, you’ll find a range of activities to kick off your adventure—from family-friendly beaches to epic hiking trails.

“Broad Cove Mountain Trail offers a short, steep hike with rewarding panoramic views at the top looking out over the Atlantic Ocean, a spectacular place to watch the sunrise! Folks seeking a family-friendly trail, or a place for a relaxing bike ride, should check out the Clyburn Valley Trail. It gently weaves its way along the river through hardwood trees, meadows, and even the remains of an old gold mine.

“Cool off with a saltwater swim in the Atlantic Ocean at North Bay Beach, then relax on the shore with white sand stretching in either direction and Ingonish Island off in the distance.”

Cape Breton Highlands National Park, she says, continues to work with partners to make the park more welcoming to everyone. In 2021, the Municipality of Victoria County donated two specially designed mats and two floating chairs to improve accessibility to the sand and water at Freshwater Lake and Warren Lake beaches. You can reserve a chair free of charge by phoning (902) 224-2306. Wheelchair accessible campsites and oTENTik units are also available at nearby campgrounds within the park.

Come evening, MacLeod suggests catching a golden sunset reflecting off the calm waters at Warren Lake. And if you’re not quite ready for your day to end, Parks Canada offers guided experiences to enhance your visit. Check out the Seeing in the Dark night hike to connect with the natural world around you or, like us, the Lantern Walk Through Time for authentic storytelling connected to this special place.

Of course, there’s always the ever- appealing option to cozy up around the campfire with friends and family to watch the moonrise—from your charming campsite at either Broad Cove Campground or Ingonish Beach Campground.

“And there’s no need to settle for s’mores for supper, although we wouldn’t blame you! Parks Canada offers some easy campfire recipes that anyone can manage, from fire roasted potatoes to Tandoori chicken” she says. (See pc.gc.ca/en/serapprocher-connect/ltc-dlc/bases-basics/recettes-recipes).

MacLeod says visitors can expect Cape Breton hospitality as they explore nearby coastal communities, where the Mi’kmaq, Acadian, and Gaelic cultures all continue to thrive.

During their time in the area, she recommends visitors enjoy seafood fresh from the ocean surrounding, local craft brews, and lively music on tap. “Catch a glimpse of some spectacular wildlife with a whale-watching tour and keep your eyes peeled for moose and bald eagles as you make your way along the Cabot Trail when you’re back on dry land.”

Insider tip?

“If you start your trip around the Cabot Trail in the Ingonish area and head counter-clockwise across the island, you’ll have an easy time pulling off at all the coastal look-offs along the way,” she says. “A great way to get that picture-perfect moment, where the mountains meet the sea.”