HE’S A TALENTED chef, with business chops to boot—which means Swiss-born Christian Aerni has the ideal background for his role as owner and chef of the Rossmount Inn in St. Andrews, NB.
After studying both culinary arts and the hospitality business in his home country, Chris travelled and worked in restaurants and hotels from Australia to Toronto. In 2001, he and his wife, Graziella, purchased the Rossmount Inn, a stunning 87-acre estate that sits in a prime location between the forest and the ocean—the perfect place for a chef who likes to use whatever land and sea can offer him on a given day.
Chris is passionate about food, and his kitchen has developed a reputation as a terrific training ground for new chefs and culinary students—they learn to create daily menus that feature foods sourced from his kitchen garden, and also from nearby organic farmers, community supported fisheries and through foraging for seasonal wild foods such as mushrooms, cat tails, goose tongue greens and kelp.
He says that, while cooking with local, sustainable foods may be a new trend for some, it’s what he’s always done. “There is a painting in the Louvre from the 1700s or 1800s that shows a market stand in France with an incredible selection of seafood and game,” he says. “Folks who could afford it had chefs who produced and loved good food. It kind of humbles me, and reminds me that chefs today should not think themselves so important.

“Good food has been around for a long time.”
Q What inspired you to become a chef?
A My mother had an organic garden 56 years ago, and she picked wild berries and mushrooms. She dabbled in fusion cooking before the term was invented. Good, honest food was always important in our family.
Q Who do you look up to?
A I have great respect for organic farmers and artisan producers. Most often they are passionate, idealistic people who take pride in what they do and are successful because they put their products first.
Q What is your favourite ingredient to work with?
A I tend to lean on fresh local seafood accompanied by whatever the season has to offer.
Q What kitchen tools can you not live without?
A A nice set of really sharp knives.
Q What is your favourite style of cooking?
A My style is based on traditional French cooking. That said, I like to use the best products available at any given time, and to keep it simple and spontaneous.
Q What do you see as the trends in food?
A I never worry about food trends. My personal food style will always be based on using as much local, seasonal, organic, wild and—most importantly—honest food. The rest is presentation.
Q Do you have any cooking tips to share?
A Visit your local market, buy what your heart and eyes desire, invite your friends over, open a nice bottle of wine and cook a meal together.
Q Are you a fan of the Food Network?
A I don’t have time to watch TV, but the Food Network has changed the public perception of chefs in many positive ways. It has also attracted many young people to our industry, and that is a good thing. How many other trades have their own network?
Q What foods do you eat in secret?
A Sorry—no food secrets, but I do sometimes share a high-end French red wine, secretly disguised in a decanter, with a friend of mine while others drink lesser quality wines. Life is too short to drink a bad bottle of wine!
Q What do you like to do when you’re not in the kitchen?
A I love sports, nature and good food and wine during my time away from our business. And I cook for my wife and friends on my days off.
Q If you could cook for any one who would they be and why?
A I like nice people who like good food and wine, a good story and having a good time together—that’s why I live in the Maritimes.