Atlantic Canada’s oysters are world-class delights

One of my favourite food quotations is from a French poem that says, “eating an oyster is like kissing the sea on the lips” which is absolutely spot on. A good oyster tastes like the fresh sea air with a hint of the briny salt water all rolled into one delicious bite. Yes, it is okay to chew your oyster, because if you let it simply slide down your gullet, you’re missing out on more flavour!

We are so fortunate to live in an area that has some of the world’s best oysters. Officially classified as Crassostrea virginica, they are also known as Eastern or Malpeque oysters. Many people who see Malpeque oysters on a menu assume that they come from the bay on PEI of the same name. While they could possibly be from there, in fact they could be from anywhere in Atlantic Canada.

The oyster is a nifty little creature that can live for up to 20 years. All oysters are born male but half the population will convert to female after birth for reproductive purposes; if for some reason an oyster bed ends up lacking enough males, some of the females will convert back.

Some folks are hesitant about purchasing oysters, not knowing how to select the best, so a little knowledge is a powerful thing. When shopping for oysters, look for shells that are tightly closed and undamaged; if a shell is gaping open, give it a quick tap and if it doesn’t close, toss it out. A full, heavy shell is also an indication of health. Give the oyster a bit of a shake and if you hear any sloshing, then toss that one as well. The shell should not sound hollow when tapped. Once the oyster is shucked the liquor (the liquid found inside an oyster) should be clear with no cloudiness.

If  not eating your oysters right away, remove them from the packaging they came in, place them in a large bowl and cover them with a damp cloth. Do not rinse the oysters until you are ready to use them. Place in the refrigerator and make sure that the cloth remains damp; you can store live oysters this way for up to three weeks. Shucked oysters can be kept refrigerated for up to a week. You can also freeze shucked meats by covering them with their own liquor in an airtight container; they will last for several months.

When you’re ready to enjoy your oysters, remove them from the fridge, rinse the oyster under cold clear water and brush away any sand or silt on the shells. If you’re eating the oysters in their raw state, the final step is to shuck the oysters and expose the meat.

There are many options other than raw when it comes to eating oysters. They can also be steamed, pan fried, grilled, deep fried, or added to dishes such as chowders and soups.

 At one time people were told to avoid consumption of oysters in months lacking an “R” in the name. This was in part because proper refrigeration was an issue in the hot summer months and oysters would quickly spoil. This is no longer a problem and oysters can, and should be, enjoyed all year round.

One of the oyster industry pioneers is Bay Enterprises, located in Tatamagouche, NS. The Purdy family has been farming oysters in Wallace Bay for 151 years. The Purdys raise nine varieties of oysters, all of which benefit greatly from the natural filtration provided in the sheltered bay which completely empties its waters and replenishes them every 48 hours. The salinity of the waters gives the oysters a wonderful briny quality. 

We asked Charles Purdy about the growing popularity of oysters. “Today’s generation Y and millennials, unlike their parents, tend to live more in the moment,” he says, “and don’t view foods such as oysters as special occasion fare and instead believe in enjoying the best life has to offer on a regular basis.” They have more of an appreciation for hand-crafted foods and foods that have been cultivated over time, which is great news for industries such as oysters.

Oyster Tacos